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How long does it take you, when you walk into a restaurant, to determine if it’s going to be good or not?

Not in the first five seconds, but the first five minutes, for sure.

And what’s the evidence of that, the first giveaway of the restaurant’s quality?

The hostess. If she’s (or he) is sweet, attentive and cordial, the rest of the staff probably will be also.

That’s surprising. Your first indication how a restaurant will be is not food-related?

No. Because a restaurant is like a wave in the ocean. It starts at the front door and runs through the place. It starts with the hostess, to the servers, cook and dishwasher. The first face you see should be beaming at you. If the hostess is rushed, harried and ramshackle, the food will probably be rushed, harried and ramshackle also. At the table, I look to see if the salt and pepper shakers are full, and then how fast the server greets me.

How about the meal itself?

Whatever I’m eating, I don’t need garnish and foof. There seems to be a trend away from good solid food. I’ll dish out the bucks for a meal if the food is worth it, but it won’t be on a baby carrot and sprig of parsley. The food should be whatever the place says it is; if it’s an American pot pie, it should be a pot pie; if it’s a tapas restaurant, it should be tapas (Spanish appetizers); if I order a steak, it should be a steak.

If I order fish, I don’t want to have to ask ‘from what ocean?’ because it’s been processed and dolled up so much it’s not fish anymore.

I like food that’s robust and alive with flavor, color, smell, texture — it should touch all five senses.

What places do you like?

Obviously Little Italy, and I eat there as often as I can. I love the Real Macaw and Ridgeway. The food is good, the service is good, and they are inviting, homey places. Ridgeway has a nice garden area with big glass doors, so you feel like you’re outdoors. The Macaw is very Florida; bright colors, a Caribbean feel. Little Italy is a traditional Italian restaurant.

You don’t go out for Italian food at other restaurants, besides at Little Italy?

Not often. The first thing most people say when they eat at an Italian restaurant is either; “This is just like my grandmother used to make!”, or, “This is nothing like what my grandmother used to make.” I don’t go out with the intention of being disappointed.

What is your all-time favorite thing?

Oh, dessert. The gooier the better. Presentation is not important. I don’t know about a favorite, it’s hard to pick one... I think the best one was probably galettes. It’s a pastry that can have anything inside. I had one at Ridgeway that was filled with a mango paste and served with ice cream. One time, at a restaurant that’s now closed, I had a white chocolate bread pudding, with vanilla ice cream and a Jack Daniels sauce that would knock your socks off. A light cinnamon taste, white chocolate on top — nothing can live up to it. But I’m in search of one.